Seasm for sewed articles.



J. BERGER, JR.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 3, I915.

LQM, Patented. May 7,1918.

tiniirnn smarts rarrnnrr oration.

JOSEPH BERGER, 31%, 015 U'I'IGA, NEW YORK, ASSIGN'OR TO UNION SPECIALMACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A. CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEAM FOB SEVTED ARTICLEES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May f, 1915..

To all whom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, Josnrrr BERGER, Jr., a citizen of the United States,residing at Utica, in the county of Oneida, State of New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Seams for SewedArticles, of which the following is a description, reference being hadto the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference markedthereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in seams for sewedarticles, and more particularly to a flat duplex seam for uniting theedges of sections of fabric.

An object of the invention is to provide a duplex seam for uniting theedges of sections of fabric, which consists of connected anchoringstitches forming a retaining seam and connected covering stitchesdisposed within the borders of the first-named seam and forming acovering scam. I

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of theinven* tion Figure 1 is a bottom plan view of a seam for uniting abuttededges, which seam embodies my improvements;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the anchoring loops, the locking loopstherefor and the cross thread, viewed from theunderface of the seam; and

Fig. 4: is a similar view of the tying down loops, the locking loopstherefor and the cross thread, also viewed from the underface of theseam.

The invention comprises generally a duplex seam for sewed articles,consisting of trimmed edges of fabric sections which are joined, whichedges are preferably abutted and these trimmed and abutted edges areunited by a duplex seam; that is, two separate and distinct seams placedone upon the other. Said duplex seam consists of a retaining seam formedof anchoring stitches; these anchoring stitches consisting of needleloops laid parallel to each other on opposite sides of the meeting edgesof the fabric sections and at a distance back from said meeting edges.These needle loops are joined on one face of the fabric by a crossthread and on the other face of the fabric by a looper thread whichserves the double purpose of anchoring and joinin the needle loops andthus joining the sections of the fabric. A.

second seam is superposed upon the first seam and lies wholly within theborders thereof. This second seam is primarily for the purpose ofcovering the meeting edges of the fabric sections, and secondly, for tying down the joining threads of the retaining seam. Said second seamincludes loops forms the double function of locking the needle loops andjoining the rows of needle loops. The needle loops of the covering seamenter the fabric preferably in a line which is substantially midwaybetween the lines passing through the needle loops of the first seam andat right angles to the meeting edges of the fabric sections. Thisarrangement of the respective needle loops of the two seams makes a moreeflicient tying down of the threads of the first seam.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the preferred form of myimproved seam for sewed articles consists of a fabric formed in twosections 1 and2, the edges ofwhich are trimmed and abutted, as at 3. Inthe formation of my seam, these edges are first joined by stitchesformed by a sewing mechanism which includes two spaced needles carryingthe needle threads 4 and 5, respectively. The needle threads 4 and 5 arepassed through the fabric some distance back from the abutted edges andthis forms a strong anchoring hold on the fabric which makes the seamespecially adapted for uniting the abutting edges of knit fabrics orwoven fabrics which have been out, so as to destroy the selvage.

The needle threads 4-. and 5 form the op posed pairs of needle loops 6and 7, respectively. Passing through the needle loops beneath the fabricis a looper thread 8. This looper thread 8 is formed into a loop 9, andfirst extends through the needle loop 7 and then through the needle loop6 upon the opposite side of the abutted edges of the fabric and the loopis locked by the next needle loop passing through the fabric. One strand10 of the looper thread loop 9 is separated from the other strand of thelooper thread and passes around the next needle loop 7.

edges of the fabric sections.

face of the fabric the needle loops 14 and This forms a connectingthread which joins and anchors the needle loops beneath the fabric,which connecting thread passes back and forth across the abutted edges.On the upper face of the fabric there is a cross thread 11, which islaid back and forth across the abutted edges and passes about eachneedle loop. From the above, it will be apparent that I first form aseam consisting of two rows of anchoring loops which are respectivelydisposed on opposite sides of the abutted edges of the fabric sectionsand the rows are substantially parallel to said abutted edges.Connecting these anchoring loops and crossing the abutted edges is athread above and a thread below the fabric.

After having formed the seam, as above described, I next form a seamdisposed wholly within the borders of the first named seam andconsisting of two rows of connected loops of needle threads 12 and 13,see Figs. 2 and 4. The needle loops 14c and 15 of these needle threads12 and 13, respec tively, are opposed and pass through the fabricbetween the rows of anchoring loops 6 and 7 and on opposite sides of theabutted edges of the fabric. Connecting and anchoring the needle loopsbeneath the fab ric is a looper thread 16. This looper thread is formedinto a loop 17, which first passes through the needle loop 15 and thenthrough the needle loop 14, and the loop 17 is spread so that both ofthe next pairs of needle loops 14: and 15 pass through this looperthread loop 17. This not only looks the looper thread loop,but carriesone strand of the looper thread loop again across the meeting On theupper 15 are connected by a cross thread 18 which passes about eachneedle loop. From the drawings, it will be apparent that the needlethreads 12 and 13 pass over the cross thread 11 of the former stitchesand bind this cross thread against the upper face of the fabric. On theunderface of the fabric the looper thread 16 also extends across thestrands of the looper thread locking the anchoring loops of the firstmade stitches and binds these closely against the underface of thefabric. The strands of the looper thread passing across the abut-tededges beneath the fabric and the cross thread 18 joining the tying downloops above the fabric aid in covering the free ends of the threadsmaking up the fabric as well as joining the abutted edges of the fabric.

From the above description, it will be apparent that the opposed loops.of the covering seam are located in a line substantially mates 0! thispatent-may be obtained tor midway between lines joining the opposedloops of the retaining seam and extending in a direction at right anglesto the abutted edges. This placing of the needle loops of the coveringseam relative to the needle loops of the retaining seam, staggers thestrain of the respective seams in a direction at right angles to themeeting edges, and

' also facilitates the covering of the retaining seam cross threads bythe covering seam.

!From the above description, it will be ap parent that I have provided aduplex flat seam for uniting the meeting edges of fabric sections,wherein there are needle loops passing through the fabric well backfromthe meeting edges and cross threads for uniting and anchoring said loopswhich form with said needle loops a retaining seam for said meetingedges, and wherein there are also needle loops passing through thefabric adjacent the meeting edges and on opposite sides thereof, whichneedle loops are joined by a cross thread and a looper thread, thusforming a second or covering seam which covers the loose ends of theedges of the fabric and which tie down the cross threads of theretaining seam.

It is obvious that minor changes may be made in the arrangement of thethreads and the location of the loops without departing from the spiritof the invention as set forth in the appended claim.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is:

A duplex seam for sewed articles comprising two fabric sections, aretaining seam for joining the abutted edges of said fabric sections,said retaining seam includlng spaced pairs of opposed needle loops, .alooper cross thread joining and anchoring said pairs of opposed needleloops on one face of the fabric, a cross thread joining the opposedpairs of needle loops on the other face of the fabric, and a coveringseam disposed within the borders of the retaining seam and includingspaced pairs of opposed needle loops located on opposite sides of saidmeeting edges, a looper cross'thread joining and anchoring said opposedneedle loops on one face of the fabric, and a cross thread forconnecting and joining the needle loops of the covering seam on theother face of the fabric.

In testimony whereof, I afiix my signature in the presence of twowitnesses.

JOSEPH BERGER, Jn.

Fitnesses HAROLD A. \FLYNN, J. A. BAEODLE.

five cents each. by addressing the Commissioner of Paw s;

Washington, 11.9.

